Friday 31 January 2014

Beautiful Bolivia & Salar de Uyuni

From San Pedro we escaped the stalkers for a few days by heading out on a three day tour to Uyuni in Bolivia with the tour agency Estrella del Sur.

Although this is billed as the salt flats tour, it encompasses more than just those. We got to see lots of Bolivian highland scenery including lots of lakes and volcanoes and some of the native wildlife too.

We headed out of San Pedro by bus, stopping to get stamped out of Chile, past the local volcano to the Bolivian border.



Things were more hectic here with loads of 4x4s for the tours parked around the buses. We got stamped into Bolivia and then headed to the lee of the bus for brekkie. Given the border is at about 5,000m everything was hard work - lots of coca mate tea helped with this - but unfortunately there was no bathroom - the only option being to pee behind an old dilapidated bus. Some people didn't get the toilet memo and were taking pics of the bus whilst others were peeing :s 

This would be our first and certainly not last 'nature' peeing experience of the tour!

We met our driver Edgar and fellow tour members - Sarah, Suzanne and Carolina x2 and headed out into the Avaroa national park having registered and paid our entrance fee.

Given that pretty much all of Bolivia excepting the Amazon region is at altitude we knew it would be high in the tour. However I don't think we all anticipated how we would react. Lots of liquid helped with the nausea, and we tried chewing the coca leaves with bicarbonate - the locals altitude remedy. Although these actions helped some of us Caro was unfortunately struggling the first day until we got a bit lower.

The first lake we stopped at - the mountainous scenery was spectacular.

Obligatory selfie with sexy hats!

The gang by our 4x4

The next blue Laguna - this one gets the colour from highly poisonous elements - so no wildlife here!

These were some Salvador Dali-esque rocks in the desert

Yep I can see more desert!

We had a quick stop in the hot spring for a dip - at 38 degrees I actually got too hot!

Thermal geysers 

Sunset over Laguna Colorada - we stayed here in a refuge the first night - it was at 4,278m which meant Caro was still effected by the altitude and had to have oxygen to sleep.

The Laguna was the red lake - so called because of the algae - and was home to lots of flamingoes.



We missed most of the redness - I think the algae stop being active when the temperature drops and we were only out there at sunset and first thing in the morning when it was bloody cold!

Selfie wearing all my clothes!


Flamingo shots

That evening we had a traditional Bolivian dinner of chips with frankfurter sausages, boiled eggs and sauces, called salchipapa. Frankfurters featured heavily in that day's food! 

Day 2 saw us in front of more lagunas and with lots of flamingoes! But first more strange rock formations - where volcanic rock has been shaped by the wind and rain in the desert environment.


How the desert looked through my sunglasses.





More flamingoes!

In front of a semi active volcano

Condor shaped rock in rock valley.

From the desert we headed to Uyuni and stopped at the train graveyard - where the locomotives come to die in Bolivia:



A hot shower in Uyuni sorted us out that evening and we were raring to go at 5am to capture sunrise over the salt flats....



We spent the morning playing around on the flooded salt flats getting some great shots with the reflection of the sky and utilising the infinite horizon for some trick shots!




Topping up my tan - you can leave your hat on!



A brief stop in Chile

From Salta we headed to San Pedro de Atacama, Northern Chile, recommended by Jo from BA for the desert scenery and also a starting point for Bolivia salt flat tours. It also weighed into our decision to go this way as it was another country to add to our lists! (It was number 60 for Cat and 44 for me).

The Geminis bus boasted heating and oxygen masks.... We realised that altitude was going to be involved getting over the border at the Jama Pass. We didn't realise how much until we got there and just standing made you dizzy. One girl on our bus fainted completely and needed the oxygen to revive her. The pass was 4,400m high - about 13,000 feet and was between mountains covered in snow.


Arriving in Sam Pedro was a relief - only 2,500 metres high, so barely any altitude impact. First impressions of San Pedro were of a shanty town - lots of low level adobe buildings and dusty scrubby streets with no names. Finding the hostel took us twice as long as it should have as the road isn't shown on any map available (online and in guide books!). When we got there the dusty scrubby outsides of the buildings were show to hide gems of courtyards and open spaces.



Our main priority in San Pedro was to arrange our Boivia tour and see some of the desert. We had heard that there were sights within cycling distance of town, so teaming up with Lucy and Matt - a British couple we had first met in Mendoza, who now seemed to be stalking us! - we decided to investigate tours and do a day of cycling.


The awesome foursome set off on quality mountain bikes to the Valle de La Muerte first. This valley has stupendous sand dunes and is commonly used for sand boarding excursions. We didn't try this out but walked around on the dunes trying to get glimpses of salt and volcanoes.

New hat pose at the entrance to Valle de la Muerte

Volcano!

The other three of the awesome foursome

Salt! And yes Matt did lick it to check!

Sand boarders! (Videos to be loaded on Facebook...)

There were a lot of selfies and pictures in front of rocks etc - so here is a montage for your enjoyment.

Next up we cycled to the Pukara de Quito - where the ruins of the Incan settlement were less interesting than the trek up the mirador for panoramic views of the volcanoes, desert and sand dunes of Valle de la Muerte.

Volcano playing hide and seek - now you don't see it...

Now you do!

And artfully framed!

The top of the hill we climbed for the ultimate mirador

Ma-housive anticline! #rocks!

Dunes of the Valle de la Muerte from above

Oh and a pic of the ruins of the Pukara

Shot of the volcano on the way back into town.

After our morning/mid afternoon excursions we headed back into town to take advantage of a set meal for lunch - 2 courses for under £4 - yum!

Following a brief respite we headed back out on the bikes to Valle de la Luna - aiming to catch sunset. Unfortunately a strong headwind made the 16km cycle out of town a tough challenge! We got to the gate of the park at 7pm and the staff seriously doubted we would make sunset. We probably would have made it if we had been allowed to cycle the whole way - but instead we were made to leave our bikes at an overflow parking about 15 minutes walk from the mirador. :(

Grumpy faces (except Cat! Well maybe just me and Lucy)

Sunset on the dune ripples

View back over the valley

The most we saw of sunset - sillouettes


Valle de la Luna with vivid colour filter.

So we missed the best of sunset but cracked open our celebratory beers at the top of the mirador only to be told off by the park ranger. Back down to the car park and we caged a lift the 2km to our bikes - only to have to ride the 16km back in the dark.

We fully deserved our happy hour pisco sours and empanadas the size of my head that evening!

And so completes the first adventure of the awesome foursome - more installments to come if they manage to stalk us to the next location lol!