Showing posts with label Peru. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Peru. Show all posts

Friday, 21 March 2014

Mancora - Northern Peru beach town

After Lima we were desperate to get back to the coast. Whilst we were tempted to break our journey in Trujillo, the connections weren't straight forward and reports were that the town itself wasn't a great place. So we missed out on the pre inca pyramids and adobe city there and headed straight for Mancora with Excluciva.

We enjoyed the ride more with Cama (bed) seats, meals and personal TVs - for 20 hours it helped a lot!

Our primary target for being in Mancora was Paddies day which gives you an idea what the aim of the game was while we were there. We hung out with our friends at Loki, despite being checked into Kokopelli hostel.... Loki is like a resort - you could really be anywhere, except they had ceviche on the menu. 

I think I saw the beach twice in 5 days..... I saw a lot of the Loki pool and bar though!

Now there was nothing wrong with Kokopelli either - it was a lot quieter than Loki, which suited us fine for sleeping. It had a similar set up - bar by the pool, dorms, communal area with computers and ping pong table - it was not to the same scale and didn't have the craic that Loki did with loads of Irish staying there.

The actual town was a standard beach side town - lots of small restaurants and bars along the Panamerican highway (main road through town) and along the beach front. An ambitious boardwalk was not quite full of stalls selling the usual tourist and seaside tat. I was glad to fine a Havianas store though - new sandals! The main activity is surfing here and some of the guys managed a lesson - not me though...

Paddies day began with green pineapple slushies and lining the stomach with lots of pasta. The 'pub crawl' around the pool started at 3pm - with activities between each pub stand like limbo and leap frog! 5 drinks later the party had properly started!

The gang pre pub crawl

Our first drink being lined up - baby Guinness shots!

Irish slushies!

Cat succeeding in the limbo contest

The Kokopelli pool bar at night

Managing a post paddies day slushie to postpone the hangover

Thursday, 13 March 2014

A city break in Lima? Kinda...

So we didn't spend very long in Lima - we arrived Wednesday evening off the PeruHop bus and got back on a 20 hour bus to Mancora on Friday afternoon.

Whilst we were there we stayed in the Miraflores district - where you could smell the sea even if you couldn't see it! The Kokopelli had a 20% discount with the inticard we got from PeruHop - but that was the only reason to stay there really... It's fairly cramped with little communal space except the bar. We were craving getting back to the beach after being spoiled in Paracas so that's one reason we didn't stay long; another was the amount of harassment you got off the restaurant owners in the area - literally trying to drag you into their expensive identikit places - complete turnoff!

We did the free walking tour that met at Kennedy Park in Miraflores and took us on the express bus downtown to the centre. That was hot and sweaty - crammed in under people's armpits... Wouldn't want to do this often!

We arrived in the plaza de Armas to catch the daily changing of the guard - which was very impressive being set to music from the guards band.

The guards were smartly dressed in Peru colours of white and red - we couldn't get too close hence the obsured pictures!

Crowds watching the changing of the guard outside government house

The plaza it's self was very pretty - with most of huge buildings painted in yellow and the gardens planted up with yellow and orange flowers to match.


The cathedral

The tour takes you around the downtown of Lima - in about a 5 block radius - so not far to walk. It includes entry to a archeological museum and a free pisco and maracuya sour tasting at a little stall.

Archeological museum - a house sat on top of the excavations and the front of it is still preserved and displays the artefacts found and information about Lima.

The tour ended at the San Francisco church with its catacombs. 

We didn't go in - lunch was more important! We weren't as impressed with this tour as we had been with the Cusco and La Paz ones (which were run by different companies) - but it was free!

For lunch we found a cheap vegetarian restaurant for the set meal - 7 soles which is about £1.5, so we were pretty happy with that.

We then headed back to the hostel to book up our bus to Mancora for the following day. Dinner that evening was an epic sandwich from the busy place under Flying Dog hostel - I'd highly recommend this, if only I could remember the name - it sounded like lucky sandwiches - easily recognised by the huge (but quick) queue outside day and night!

The following day we didn't getup to much before it was time to head to the bus stop. If we'd had more time or were on an actual city break holiday the Barranca area of Lima wasn't far from Miraflores and is close to the ocean with lots of cool bars and restaurants to explore - next time perhaps?!

(Also the gold museum is meant to be worth a visit - you'll need to get a taxi out there though, we ran out of time for this, sorry Dad!)

Monday, 10 March 2014

Condors of Colca Canyon

Colca canyon is the second deepest canyon in the world - twice the depth of the Grand Canyon and second only to another in the same national park in Peru.

We'd been told that the 2 day trek was the best option to see (tackle?!) it. It's also famous for its condors and I was looking forward to seeing them!

We started at 3am from Arequipa - heading to the park for breakfast - we weren't impressed to be walking for 4 hours on just bread & jam though....

After breakfast we stopped at Condor point - usually prime viewing for the condors - but the heavy cloud cover kept them away. We fared better once we had started our descent into the canyon and the sun had burnt some of the clouds away.


Condor point - you can see the clouds filling the canyon

Just below the clouds - we could now see what we had left to tackle!

And the condors came out! The adult ones are black with white markings and the young are brown. Their wingspan can be as large as 3m and they are some of the largest birds on the planet.

Spot the condor?!

We took our time on the descent - you can't walk and take pictures at the same time else you'd fall off the cliff face path!

We also had to make way for mules & donkeys carrying people up/down the mountain.

Our trail was the main way the people in the villages below get in and out - makes you appreciate how difficult it must be when everything has to be carried in and out.


We eventually made it down to the river for our lunch time stop and the traditional food or soup followed by a meal with dual carbs - in this case rice and chips.

It was a pretty stop - I was amazed at the geraniums everywhere!

In the afternoon it rained on us mostly - hence the space hopper rain poncho - but I still managed to get wet...

We stopped at a little village for the evening - a swimming pool was apparently warmer than the river but not that enticing for us cold and wet. We shared a few piscos and some beer with the bartender who's birthday was the following day - he was celebrating with us early, and had an early night.

Back up at 5am for the near vertical ascent of the canyon - before breakfast... 

I managed the 1200m hike in 2.5 hours which is not something that I'd ever thought about doing - but it was an achievement to have done it!

Dawn breaking over the cloud cover:

Over half way and above the clouds into the sunlight!

At the top!

Our gang with our guide Walter celebrating making it!

Next we headed for a well deserved breakfast - a bit more substantial than bread and jam this time! The bus then took us back out of the park - stopping along the way for some site seeing and to taste a colca sour - made out of the juice of the sour catus that grows above a certain elevation.

The best stop was the hot springs though! These were made to sooth our tired muscles!

The setting by the river was beautiful too and allowed you to cool off easily

Gang in the colca valley - before it becomes the steep sided canyon - you can see pre inca terraces in the background

On the way back to Arequipa we stopped in another national reserve to see the llamas and alpacas

Sunday, 2 March 2014

Carnival & Cusco

Cusco is a pretty colonial city - it was the centre of the world or naval of the world if you believe the Inca interpretation - its stories of golden buildings drew the Spanish in to conqueror and strip the city in its entirety.

So not much of Inca Cusco remains - instead the colonial features rule in the centre. We did the free walking tour to see more of the city's key parts and ended with a free pisco sour tasting - result!

The main square Plaza de Armas

Narrow alleyways between 5* hotels

A moody sky above the city - it rained most afternoons

Cathedral San Francisco - where Incan beliefs influence the Catholic faith - in the last supper painting they serve cuy (guinea pig)

Traditional Incan welcome?!

Inca queen Katie!

A night out with our fellow Jungle Trekkers in one of Cusco's nightclubs - we didn't last late!

Our guide - Aurelio

We spent a lot of time at Jack's cafe - lovely brekkie, cakes and proper coffee!! A lot of our time in Cusco was spent chilling out - however we did manage to visit some of the archeological sites just outside the city - Tambomachay & Pukapukara. 

Tambomachay - the ceremonial bath of the Incas'

Pukapukara - named the red fort, actually a hunting lodge

We walked back on an exciting cut through the fields / heath lands - not really a trail! And came out on sexy woman (Saqsaywaman) which was closed by the time we got there, but we got a really good view of Christo Blanco.

We beat the thunder storm back to the city - but the lightning on the hills was mesmorising!


The city lighting up

On Sunday we had planned to head back to Sexywoman and then on to Pisaq - however we got derailed by carnival kicking off in the town centre. Children and adults alike targeted the gringos with water bombs and foam spray!


We soon retreated to the hostel to dump our stuff, have a fortifying beer and get armed up!


A quick pisco sour stop before heading back into the melee with the supersize cans!

There was some traditional dancing by the locals in the procession - but even those dancing got targetted!

After a few buckets we were throughly soaked, it was great fun!!

A soaked beer to celebrate!



Saturday, 1 March 2014

Jungle trek to Machu Picchu

As we arrived in Cusco in February when the traditional Inca Trail was closed, Cat and I decided to do the Jungle Trail to Machu Picchu and we managed to drum up some ex-Beehivers Hana and Vin to join us.3

This involves the traditional Incan pastimes of downhill mountain biking (aka 'gravity assisted') and zip lining along with the more boring 'walking' along rivers and train tracks, with a brief stint on an actual Inca trail.

So starting with the downhill biking - we got suited up at 4,700m with our 'safety gear' - knee pads and elbow pads and one size fits all helmets - I felt significantly less safe than when doing the death road! The bikes were also not full suspension and the gears were a little dodgy - however we would be doing this on paved road - so I guess we didn't need to be so cautious....

Girls working the look!

And we're off!

The roads wonderfully twisty and with lots of rivers fording it - so the potential to get wet was high! At first I managed to avoid getting wet feet by sticking my legs out - but then I needed control of the bike so wet feet it was!

This was our twisty road

We got to the bottom - a lot lower! And from here we were driven to Santa Maria. Here we would have had the option for some white water rafting, excepting it was rainy season and the police had closed the rafting after one guide did some stupid things. So instead it was beer o'clock!

The next day was our main hiking day - from Santa Maria to Santa Teresa - following the river along the valley.

Crosses to commemorate the dead when the river flooded high above the old Santa Maria village

View along the valley and of the landslides we had to traverse...

The gang on the landslide

We did some face painting in the traditional way - from the natural plant extracts

Vinnie in traditional paint for an Inca

Hana rocking the Quechua look

As we walked through the jungle the guides showed us lots of the different plants - here is Cat hiding in  a coca field!

We also saw some of the local animals

Everything is bigger in the jungle - this guy is related to the guinea pig!

Avocados and other fruit are also bigger than Cusco


We also learnt about the importance of coca in the Andes and tried chewing it - it's meant to help with the altitude and endurance! 

Next we were walking up from the river to part of an Incan trail not sure if the coca helped with this...


Inca trail! This was at 1,800m

Perched above the valley

After lunch and a few more hours walking we crossed the river a few times - the methods got more creative until we were in a basket being hauled across!


Yikes what a drop!

We made it across the river in time to hit up the hot springs to sooth our tired muscles. A night in Santa  Teresa and then the next day we chose to skip 3 hours of walking by doing some zip lining.

In our new safety gear

The zip lines were much longer than I've done before - from 400m to 1.2km!

Cat doing it in style

We finished up with a rappel back down into base camp - Vinnie went beard first!

A three hour trek along the train lines completed our Jungle trek into Agua Calientes. We could see the damage the river made on the roads and town when it was ultra high in 2010.

My first view of Machu Picchu from the valley.

The next morning we were up at 4am to hike to Machu Picchu. It took an hour to make the 400m vertically up the hill and I was covered in sweat by the time we got there; the top tip was to take a clean t shirt! Although you could take a bus up the hill it was worth it to make the walk myself - you earn the spectacular views!

Dawn over the mountains on the way up to Machu Picchu.

The first misty views as we walked into the site.

The sun burning off the clouds


We stopped on the agricultural terraces for our guide to explain about Machu Picchu - you can see the view above. Machu Picchu was 'lost' for 350 years as the Spanish never found it when they invaded and destroyed the Incan civilisation. It took an American historian Hiram Bingham to 'discover' it again and report back to the western world in 1911. Apparently some Europeans had found it when looking for flowers or wildlife, but never considered to report it back to the world. They also didn't have the money Hiram had to manage a discovery like this!

Next to the agricultural terraces was the living sections of the city - some of the ruins of the houses have been renovated/recreated to give you a feel of what it would have been like. Llamas and alpacas still roam - helping the gardeners keep the vegetation from growing back!


The Incas lived in Machu Picchu 'Ancient Mountain' (which is the name Hiram Bingham gave the site - the original name is lost as the Incas didn't have a written language and the Spanish never found out about it to write it down). These were the kings of the Quechua. They had about 500 people up on the mountain with the Inca's family. 

There were several temples, the temple of the sun and temple of the condor were two we visited. 

Can you see the condor? Beak and white breast at the front of the photo and wings of stone behind.

Being so close to the sky and sun was important for the Incan religion - to worship the sun and the condors better. Machu Picchu is at 2,400m elevation and Wayna Picchu and Machu Picchu mountain tower over it at 2,700m and 3,000m respectively.

Wayna Picchu is the mountain in the back - we climbed up this one too - 300m vertically!

Cat and me with the city behind.

Another iconic view of Machu Picchu!


Climbing up Wayna Picchu was a hit more tricky! This was the smaller hill - you can see the path to the top behind me on the mountain.

The view from the top of Wayna Picchu - you can see the road up to Machu Picchu and more importantly the shape of the site. Machu Picchu was designed in the shape of a condor - it's head is to the right and the wings across opened up.

I made almost around the whole of the site - we went to the Inca bridge - which we had seen from the valley floor on the way there - an old inca trail crossed the near vertical cliff face:

Inca bridge

Inca trail across the cliff

The only bit I missed was the Sun Gate - Cat went and reported back that it wasn't a 50minute walk, but a half hour round trip - doh! But by then my legs were giving out - so I grabbed the bus back down with Hana and Vince.

We got celebratory beers and pizzas back in Agua Calientes before catching the train/bus back to Cusco thoroughly exhausted! A highlight of the trip for sure!