Friday 21 February 2014

Titicaca & floating islands

From Cocacabana we headed over the Peruvian border to Puno to check out the Peruvian side of the lake.

The main draw for Peru is the floating islands - made of reed these show case a traditional lifestyle and are now a huge tourist attraction. Some people have mixed feelings - too touristy, but we quite enjoyed our experience!

So we had one night in Bothy hostel in Puno before heading off on a 2 day 1 night tour of the Peruvian islands (floating and normal). Although we booked with one of the tour agents that was recommended for being more socially responsible, we ended up on the same tour as everyone else in the hostel.

First we visited the reed islands with their distinctive reed huts and we were given a demonstration on how they create the islands.



Women in their colourful traditional dress

How they layer the reeds on top of the root beds - they have to add a layer once a month

Women embroidering

Special stoves to ensure they don't burn the island down!

Mini island and mini items for decoration - everything was for sale too!

Beautiful textiles for sale - lets just say that I 'supported' the local community!

We then got a reed boat to another island where you could get your passport stamped - so I did!

Here's our 'Mercedes Benz' boat!

Ladies singing us off


Kids catching a ride for the chance to sell us stuff!

Enjoying the ride on the top

Passport stamped

From the reed islands we headed to the second largest island on Lake Titicaca - Amantani. After 3 hours on our boat we were greeted by the locals that we would be sharing houses with and taken from the harbour up the hill to the villages.


Cat, I and Marie were staying with Norma. She is my age and has a 14 year old son - but her man ran off and is now shacked up with another woman. She lives with her son and her mother Julia. As we were a house of women we had much commiseration about the fact we were all single! I couldn't help but feel sorry for Norma - as the only one of 8 siblings to remain on the island with her mother she's unlikely to find another man and it's highly likely that Willam her son will leave the island.

We learnt that all school children learn Spanish, however Julia spoke Quechua as her first language and the whole family speak it at home. I learnt one word of Quechua - Inmanihya or hello! Norma's Spanish was very good - hence we got some insights into their lives and luckily so was Marie's so she could translate for us!

View from our bedroom window


Gorgeous views over the village and lake

After having our lunch we headed to meet the rest of our group (we were split up into groups of 3/4 to spread the burden over several families - each family gets 30 soles per person to host and feed us). Our guide then took us on a short hike up to Pachatata - the brother hill to Pachamama (Mother Earth).

On the way he introduced us to several of the local plants - including potato crops, quinoa and the herb mounia, which we drank steeped as tea with our meals. This herb in particular is meant to be good for everything! Unsettled stomachs, coughs and altitude sickness is just a few things it's good for.

Ladies in their traditional dress - they all carried wool and embroidery with them and would multi task as they walked!

The Inca path we followed up the hill

First view of the enclosure around the Pachatata temple remains


View from the top - lots of dry stone walls here reminded people of Ireland.

There wasn't anything really left of the temple so we enjoyed the sunset - not so spectacular that night and then hiked back before it was completely dark.



We managed to catch part of a volleyball game on the way back to Norma's 


After dinner of quinoa soup followed by potato stew we were ready for bed - but no! Norma had other ideas and dressed us up in her finest for a party.

Here we are - just like sisters - I think the trainers really set the outfit off!

Musicians and local men in traditional dress - with the hats and ponchos we couldn't tell who was who!

Other group members getting into the dancing!

That night was the loudest hail storm I've ever heard - the thunder shook the house and lots of hail was left the next morning. After a breakfast of yummy pancakes we headed to Taquile - our final island. Here the hail storm had done more damage - breaking some of the crops - despite the best efforts of the locals (shooting into the storm - probably not scientifically proven....

Saying our goodbyes to Norma 

Gates denoting different communities on Taquile 

Inca path to the villages

Gates secured with old sandals

Distances to everywhere in the world! Not sure the directions are correct though (Paris and London are surely in the same direction from here?!)

The big thing on Taquile is the men knitting - often with 4 or 5 needles



The traditional dress is different on each of the islands. The hats the men knit on Taquile denote if the man is single or married or a head man in charge of the village.


We walked out of the main village to have lunch overlooking the island on a lovely terrace



Lunch was fresh lake trout and was delicious! 

We just had to walk down 500 Inca steps back to the harbour to pick up our boat back to Puno

At the top of the steps

The view from the bottom!

On the way back we saw the Uros islanders harvesting their reeds:

Wednesday 19 February 2014

Copacabana & Isla del sol

After missing our tourist bus from the main bus station (lunch was late :s I blame Lucy :p) we managed to catch another bus from the cemetery to Copacabana. We probably should have taken this route to start out with - it would have been cheaper and the buses are more frequent!

The ride to Copa was spectacular - Bolivia has this capacity to stun with its amazing scenery. We saw white snow capped mountains extending away from the plains as we made our way to the lake. When we got to the lake the bus had to take a ferry to get across the water to the peninsular that Copacabana sits on. This meant we had to get off and take another ferry - the wooden barge the bus went on was a bit precarious!


Luckily both us and the bus made it to the other side without getting wet.

We arrived in Copacabana in time to see the sunset - beautiful! And checked into a cheap hostel for the night. 


The next day we arranged tickets to the largest island on lake Titicaca - Isla del Sol. We headed to the North of the island to see the Inca ruins there before trekking along the ridge through the centre to Yumani - the settlement at the South of the island.

Rainbow over the lake as we waited for the ferry

Traditional reed boat with puma heads 

Beaches at the north of the island. It was stunning in the sun (you would expect that for Isla del sol) but not quite swimming weather.... We were still at 3,800m!

The walk up to the Inca ruins was through terraced fields and groves of eucalyptus

.... with the odd cactus thrown in too!

The island gets quite rocky on the way up to the Inca ruins

Gorgeous views from the top! 


The Incas thought the sun god was born here - hence the island name. So there are lots of ritual sites centred around worshipping the sun god.


Including sacrificial tables!

The labyrinth 



After wandering through the ruins and eavesdropping on the guides we headed for the path at the centre of the island - just a quick 4 hour walk to the south where we planned to stay the night - again with stunning weather & views!


There were several unexpected tolls on the route.... The locals made sure they got your money!


Finally arriving in Yumani! We headed down to the harbour for a beer in the sun before checking out guest houses.

Gorgeous greenery on the way down

The Inca steps and spring at Yumani

A well deserved rest!

Snow capped mountains appearing from the cloud across the lake

 We walked up the hill for sunset - but it was too overcast for a good one - on the way we met a couple we had seen on the boat over and we grabbed a pizza together. The next morning we were all on the same boat back to Copa.



We spent another night in Copacabana as we liked the quaint town and we hadn't tried the local lake trout yet. This turned out to be a wise decision as a strike in Peru had closed the road for the day!
The Bolivian navy, Copacabana division (the only division?) a bit of a joke given that Bolivia hasn't had a coast line since Chile occupied it!

Copacabana is famous for its Virgin - she is housed in a huge church in the centre of town - it looks large for the population - but they inundated with pilgrims on key festivals so it needs to be this large! The Virgin is rarely removed from the church as the locals believe this will result in floods. Copacabana beach in Rio is named after this religious site in Bolivia.




There is a short hike up to the hill above town - following the stations of the cross - that gives great views:


Shrines at the top of the hill


Cat contemplating the sunset


Another stunning sunset!